How to Wax Skis and Snowboards — The Complete Guide by Terry Hertel
Terry Hertel has been waxing skis since 1972. In that time, he has waxed skis at the Olympic level, developed wax technology that was banned from World Cup competition, and taught thousands of skiers how to get more performance, more control, and more enjoyment from their equipment.
This is his complete guide to waxing skis and snowboards.
📚 Want the full 50-year knowledge base? Download the complete WAXFAX book FREE — Terry Hertel's comprehensive guide to ski wax science, history, and technique. No subscription. No gimmicks. Just 50 years of knowledge.
Why Waxing Matters More Than Most Skiers Think
Most recreational skiers treat waxing as optional. It is not.
Ski wax is the only thing between your ski base and the snow. It determines how your skis glide, how your edges grip, how much energy you expend controlling your skis, and how your equipment responds when conditions change suddenly.
A properly waxed ski glides smoothly, responds predictably, and reduces fatigue throughout the day. An unwaxed or poorly waxed ski grabs, drags, and fights you — making every run harder than it needs to be.
Waxing is also a safety issue. Inconsistent glide creates unpredictable ski behavior. On a crowded mountain at speed, that unpredictability is a risk to you and everyone around you.
The Two Types of Ski Wax Application
1. Hot Wax (Iron-On)
Hot waxing is the professional method — the technique used by race technicians, ski shops, and serious recreational skiers who want maximum performance and durability.
What you need:
- A wax iron (a dedicated ski wax iron, not a clothes iron)
- Your wax bar (Hertel Super HotSauce™ for all-temperature use)
- A plastic scraper
- A nylon or horsehair brush
- A clean, dry ski base
The process:
- Clean your base. Remove old wax, dirt, and debris with a base cleaner or a light scrape. A clean base absorbs wax better and holds it longer.
- Set your iron temperature. For most all-temperature waxes including Hertel Super HotSauce™, a medium iron temperature (around 93 C / 200 F) works well. The wax should melt smoothly off the bar — if it smokes, the iron is too hot.
- Drip the wax. Hold the wax bar against the iron and drip melted wax along the length of the ski base in a zigzag pattern. You want even coverage from tip to tail.
- Iron the wax in. Move the iron slowly and steadily from tip to tail, spreading the wax evenly across the full width of the base. Keep the iron moving — never let it sit still on the base. One to two passes is typically sufficient.
- Scrape immediately — while hot. Do not wait for the wax to cool. Mash scrape tip to tail while the wax is still hot, using firm even strokes with your plastic scraper at a 45-degree angle. This is the Hertel method — scraping hot activates the wax and delivers maximum base performance.
-
Buff to a high shine.
High buff for maximum glide. Don’t brush out all the wax you just applied. The mountain will do that for you. As you start to ski, an alignment effect takes place — kind of like putting chains on a car tire. After about three turns, the base is set up and ready to perform. A little physical chemistry at work.
Note: There are two ways to get down the hill:
Mechanical
or
Cemetery. - Ski. Your bases are now properly waxed and ready for the mountain.
Special note for IceCoast™: The same hot-scrape method applies — mash scrape tip to tail while still hot, then buff to a high shine. This activates IceCoast's hardening agents for maximum base protection.
2. Rub-On Wax (No Iron)
Rub-on wax is the on-mountain solution — fast, convenient, and effective for mid-day touch-ups when conditions change and you do not have access to a wax bench.
Hertel Rub N Go™ was developed in the 1970s specifically for this purpose. It is the original pocket ski wax — and after 50 years, it remains the best.
The process:
- Pull Rub N Go out of your jacket pocket.
- Rub the bar directly onto your ski or snowboard base from tip to tail. Apply firm, even pressure. You want a visible layer of wax across the full base.
- Smooth it out with your glove, a cloth, or a cork if you have one.
- Ski. The whole process takes under 2 minutes and can be done right on the slope.
One Rub N Go stick provides over 8 full applications — enough for an entire season of mid-day touch-ups.
How Often Should You Wax?
- Hot wax: Every 3–5 ski days for recreational skiers, every 1–2 days for aggressive or race skiing
- Rub-on touch-up: Whenever your skis start losing glide — typically mid-day when conditions change
- Early season: Always hot wax before the first ski day of the season
- Spring conditions: Use SpringSolution™ when pollen is present — typically March through May
- East Coast / icy conditions: Apply IceCoast™ base hardener before each trip for maximum durability
Choosing the Right Wax
The ski industry has spent decades convincing skiers they need a different wax for every condition. That is not true. Hertel's All Temperature® system was built on a simple truth: one well-engineered wax should handle most conditions.
- All-mountain, all-season: Super HotSauce™ — works from 6°F to 52°F, five-star rated in every independent study, #1 Amazon bestseller
- On-mountain convenience: Rub N Go™ — pocket-sized, no iron, 8+ applications
- Women skiers: 4HER Rub N Go® — formulated for women's skiing dynamics
- Spring pollen conditions: SpringSolution™ — the only wax engineered for pollen snow
- East Coast ice and hard-pack: IceCoast™ — professional base hardener
- Maximum race performance: Racing 739™ — the wax banned from Olympic competition for being too fast
Common Waxing Mistakes
- Iron too hot: Smokes the wax, damages the base. Keep it at medium temperature.
- Waiting for the wax to cool before scraping: Wrong. Scrape while hot — that is the Hertel method. Scraping hot activates the wax and delivers maximum performance.
- Not scraping enough: Scrape firmly tip to tail until the base structure is visible.
- Skipping the buff: Buffing to a high shine opens the base structure and dramatically improves glide. Do not skip it.
- Using the wrong wax: Cheap imported wax with unknown chemistry can contaminate your base. Use a wax with a documented track record.
- Waxing too infrequently: Dry bases absorb more friction, wear faster, and perform worse. Wax regularly.
The Full Knowledge Base: Download WAXFAX Free
This guide covers the fundamentals. But 50 years of ski wax knowledge goes much deeper — into the science of snow friction, water film management, the history of All Temperature® technology, Olympic race room stories, and the industry politics that most wax companies would prefer you never knew about.
All of it is in WAXFAX — Terry Hertel's comprehensive book on ski wax, available as a free PDF download.
⬇ Download WAXFAX FREE — 50 Years of Ski Wax Knowledge
No subscription. No gimmicks. Just the most comprehensive ski wax guide ever written, from the man who invented All Temperature® wax.
A Final Note From Terry Hertel
I have been waxing skis since before most recreational skiers were born. In that time, I have learned one thing above all others: the skiers who wax properly enjoy the mountain more, ski better, and stay safer than the ones who don't.
Waxing is not complicated. It does not require expensive equipment or professional expertise. It requires the right wax, the right technique, and the willingness to take 20 minutes before you ski.
Everything you need to know is in WAXFAX. Download it. Read it. Then go ski.
— Terry Hertel, Founder, Hertel Ski Wax — Made in USA since 1972